Cake Yield: 1 layer of 8" round cake
Frosting Yield: 3 cups
Cake Servings (approx): 4-5 slices
Good cake pairings:
Make this frosting for those who like:
The name "Ermine" is a type of weasel, and the name of this frosting came from its likeness to the softness and velvety texture of an ermine's fur. Traditionally, this type of frosting is used for red velvet cake. The milder flavor and texture make it versatile and great for those who want buttercream but dislike the heaviness and sweetness of most frostings.
The process of making this buttercream is two steps. The first is a cooking step, whereby a flour paste combines milk, flour, and sugar in a pan. When left to cool, this creates a thickened white mixture with a pudding-like consistency. (This is not a roux, which is technically flour cooked in fat, such as butter, and a base for many types of sauces and gravies.)
The second step is combining the flour paste with softened butter. The final buttercream is slightly off-white, aerated, fluffy, and delicious.
This frosting has a unique flavor. I have tasted many buttercreams (you can watch my video below, which lists 8), and Ermine is most unlike the others. Although it classifies as a buttercream (i.e., a frosting with butter as the primary fat and emulsifier), it tastes the least of butter.
The flavor has a bright vanilla and milky-dairy flavor with the slightest taste of butter at the end. Some describe it as similar to whipped cream. This is reasonably accurate - whipped cream is well, cream, and this frosting has a large proportion of butter and milk. We're likely tasting all those dairy proteins and fats, giving it that milky flavor. Starch (flour) mitigates this a little because it offers bulk and dilutes the milky flavor. However, it's still the most prominent flavor.
My family does not enjoy most classic buttercreams and doesn't like the heaviness or butteriness in large amounts. I do - but I'm alone in that regard. I made them this buttercream, however, and they loved it.
So, this is one to try if you're looking for buttercream with the least amount of butter flavor and heaviness.
In a shallow pan, pour in the milk and flour. Cook on medium heat while whisking until thickened (1a).
Whisk in white sugar and continue cooking until you see the first bubble pop, then cook for 1-2 minutes longer (1b).
Pour the hot cooked flour mixture into a container. A pie pan or other shallow container is best, and I like to use a sheet pan (2a). Cover with plastic wrap to prevent dehydration and skin forming and cool completely to the touch for at least 30 minutes (2b). The flour paste will be thick like pudding but will thicken slightly as it cools.
Once the flour mixture has cooled, whip the softened butter with the whisk attachment. (3a) until it is lighter in color and texture, at least 2-3 minutes on high speed (3b).
Here is what the cooled flour paste should look like: thickened but still able to fall off the end of the spatula like a super thick cake batter (4a). Add the flour paste to the whipped butter, and using the whisk attachment, whisk on low speed until all the paste has been added (4b). After that, whisk on high speed until it comes together and thickens slightly as the butter takes in the flour paste, 1-5 minutes.
When properly mixed, Ermine should look like this:
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Off-white to cream, very fluffy and soft, and air pockets from the whisk (5a). Don't worry about the softness - you can still frost with it. It will seem counterintuitive if you've worked with other buttercreams. Remember, this one has less butter so that it will feel less dense. The texture will feel right in between that of buttercream and whipped cream.
Now switch to a paddle attachment to smooth it out since the whisk incorporates many air pockets. You can flavor it with vanilla and salt here and add the tiniest speck of purple food coloring if you want a whiter buttercream (5b).
For all other sizes, you should be ok with either grams or volume.
My cakeculator converts to estimated volume (cups, tablespoons, etc.) for American bakers, which are not as accurate and why you you will see differences between the weight and volume amounts. The correct and most accurate one will always be weight.
Ingredients like baking soda and salt are usually given volumentrically (teaspoons) because most household scales are inaccurate with smaller numbers.
This is the OXO scale I use on a daily basis. If you’re interested in other tools I use for my baking, I’ve compiled a list here.
Pour the batter into the prepared pan.
Loosen the edges of the cake using an offset spatula or butter knife, and flip the cake out onto a cooling rack so you can peel off the parchment bottom. Make sure it is completely cool before assembling and/or frosting.
In a pan, whisk together the milk and flour. On medium-low to medium heat, cook the flour mixture until thickened, about 5-10 minutes. The exact timing will depend on your heat source, so cook until the mixture is slightly off-white and has a pudding consistency. You should be able to see the bottom of the pan when scraping with a whisk.
Now whisk in all the granulated sugar. The flour mixture will turn smooth and glossy as the sugar dissolves. Continue cooking and whisking until you see the first big bubble pop, then cook for one to two minutes longer.
Remove the flour-milk mixture from the heat and pour it into a container. I like to use a sheet pan because it's flat and wide; the greater exposed surface area helps the flour paste cool a little quicker. You can also use a pie pan or other shallow dish.
Cover with plastic wrap to prevent dehydration and skin formation atop the mixture. Let this cool completely. You can do this at room temperature or move it to the fridge to quicken this step once it gets cool to the touch.
Once the flour paste is completely cool, remove the plastic wrap and set it aside. Add the slightly softened butter to a large mixing bowl. With the whisk attachment, beat on high speed until the butter is fluffy and lighter in color, about 3-5 minutes.
Turn the mixer to low and add the flour paste one scoop at a time. After adding all the paste, mix on high speed for an additional 1-2 minutes.
Now, we will adjust for texture, flavor, and color (if you like). For the texture, switch to the paddle attachment. The wire whisk is excellent for bringing the buttercream together but adds many air pockets. The paddle will smooth it out. Also, add in the vanilla and salt for flavor. For color, you can add the tiniest speck of purple gel food coloring for a whiter buttercream. Smooth on low speed for a couple of minutes.
If you typically use American buttercream, this frosting will feel looser. Don't let that deter you; it's normal and will still pipe and frost a cake just fine. Remember that it has a lower butter content than my other buttercreams, so that it will feel less dense. The texture should feel between American buttercream and whipped cream.
*You can use any flour, but I use all-purpose wheat flour. Since we're cooking the flour for its thickening properties for the pudding, we don't care about the gluten content. In this case, the type of flour shouldn't matter. If you are gluten-free, you'll want to consult a gluten-free conversion chart to add the correct amount to sub in for the wheat-based flour. (I’ve not tested this yet, but it is on my list for future recipes.)
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